1、中文 2260 字 ,1300 英文单词， 7600 英文字符 文献出处： Silberstein R. Cloud Collars and Sleeve Bands: Commercial Embroidery and the Fashionable Accessory in Mid-to-Late Qing ChinaJ. Fashion Theory the Journal of Dress Body & Culture, 2016:1-34. Cloud Collars and Sleeve Bands: Commercial Embroidery and the Fashionabl
2、e Accessory in Mid-to-Late Qing China Rachel Silberstein Abstract This paper explores how the growth of commercialized textile production entwined with fashionable consumption to stimulate new styles in Chinese womens dress during the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries. Focusing on the development
3、of Suzhous embroidery industry, the paper demonstrates the shift towards the embroidered accessory during this period and discusses how production systems delineated the possibilities of fashionable dress. Combining analysis of embroidered objects with vernacular and commercial texts detailing the g
4、rowth of this industry, the paper considers the impact of commercialization not only upon styles of dress, but also upon the women who wore and produced these fashionable accessories, and in so doing, connected to contemporary cultural trends. KEYWORDS: Chinese historical fashion, embroidery, commer
5、cialization, borders and trimmings For many centuries, Western thinking held that historical Chinese dress was static, absent of fashion impulse. French academic Gilles Lipovetsky was following a well-trodden path when he asserted that, in China womens dress underwent no real transformation between
6、the seventeenth and nineteenth centuries (1994, 19). However, scholarship of recent decades has challenged this claim that Chinese society was so stable and conservative as to lack the desire for change and novelty that enabled the rise of fashion in early modern Europe (Ko 2003; Finnane 2008), and there is now a growing literature on historical C hinese fashion (Chen 2016). Despite these advances, the topic remains controversial and many questions remain unanswered, in particular regar
