1、 译 文 原文题目 : An investigation of the assessment of fabric drape using three-dimensional body scanning 译文题目 : 使用三维身体扫描，对织物悬垂性评估的调查 学 院 : 纺织与材料学院 专业班级 : 纺织工程 学生姓名 : 学 号 : An investigation of the assessment of fabric drape using three-dimensional body scanning Tannie Mah and Guowen Song* Department of H
2、uman Ecology, University of Alberta, Edmonton, Canada (Received l/April 2008；final version received 13 August 2008) This investigation explores how information on air gaps obtained from three-dimensional (3D) body scanning can be used to evaluate the drape of fabrics. Three-dimensional images of dra
3、ped fabrics differing in physical and mechanical properties were acquired through 3D body scanning and the air gap distances and distribution between the outside edge of a cylinder and the fabric determined. Results demonstrate an inverse relationship between the overall average air gap distance and
4、 the amount of fabric drape. Findings were also compared to drape data obtained from the traditional cantilever and drapemeter methods. Not only docs the 3D body scanning approach provide a measure of the degree of fabric drape but can also provide a more complete description of drape compared to tr
5、aditional methods, as information about a fabrics draped appearance along the entire length of the fabric can also be obtained. Keywords: fabric drape； 3D body scanning； air gap； drape coefficient Introduction Drape is one of the properties that can influence the aesthetic perception of a textile pr
6、oduct. Not only does drape affect consumer acceptance of a textile product, but it also plays an influential role in the design, production, and retailing stages of that item. Because drape determines the adjustment of clothing to the human silhouette (Kenkare & May-Plumlee, 2005), garment fit, mobi
7、lity, and human comfort are also affected (Hunter & Fan, 2004). Drape is therefore an important factor, determining both the aesthetic and functional properties of fabrics. The drape behavior of fabrics is complex. Each fabric has a distinct set of properties that causes it to drape in a characteris
8、tic way (Kenkare & May-Plumlee, 2005). Not only do drape shapes differ across fabrics, but a single fabric alone may take on different drape configurations with repeated draping as well (Jeong, 1998). Variations in drape are due to the complicated interactions between optical, physical, and mechanic
9、al fabric properties, as well as other factors. Despite its complexity, methods that evaluate the drape of fabrics have been developed. Research in the area has generally followed one of the following three approaches: (1) the objective measurement of a fabrics material properties, namely shear, ben
10、ding, and weight, and correlation of these values with drape values； (2) the objective measurement of drape attributes using the drapemeter, specifically the drape coefficient and node properties； and (3) the subjective evaluation of fabric drape (Stylios & Powell, 2003). Studies have also examined
11、the development of fabric drape prediction models and simulation techniques (Stylios & Wan, 1999). More recently,May-Plumlee et al. (2005) used a three-dimensional (3D) body scanner to investigate the virtual draping of garments,taking variations in fabric mechanical properties into account. The sub
12、jective evaluation of drape involves either the kinesthetic or visual judgment of human raters. Evaluators use polar words on value scales, rank the amount of and/or preferred drape on ordinal scales, or make comparisons of specimens against a reference fabric. Tedious mea- surement procedures and l
13、ack of knowledge in conducting objective tests and interpreting results make the subjective assessment of drape common in textile and apparel industries (Gider, 2004). However, the strong subjective quality of drape suggests that accurate subjective assessment of this property is difficult. Results
14、may be biased and inconsistent due to the vagaries of personal preference, human perception, and fashion change. Subjective methods have therefore generally been deemed unreliable, necessitating the development of more dependable and consistent techniques (Kenkare & May-Plumlee, 2005). Research sinc
15、e the 1930s resulted in the development of objective techniques and quantitative parameters for the assessment of fabric drape. Recognition that fabric mechanical properties such as stiffness had a significant effect on drape prompted researchers to use instruments that measured these properties as
16、a means of indirectly evaluating drape. In the objective two-dimensional (2D) cantilever method (Peirce, 1930), a rectangular strip of fabric is placed on a horizontal platform and extended over the edge until the overhanging end contacts an angled platform. The longer the projected bending length,
17、the stiffer the fabric, and the lower the drape, and vice versa. The American Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM) D 1388 Standard Test Method for Stiffness of Fabrics uses this procedure and includes alternative 2D techniques such as hanging loop tests (ASTM, 2007). Two-dimensional tests are re
18、latively easy to perform, have good reproducibility, and are commonly used in industry or for experimental and theoretical drape studies.However, 2D instruments cannot discriminate between papers and fabrics that have the same stiffness value (Kenkare & May-Plumlee, 2005). Even if these sheet materi
19、als possess the same bending lengths, it is unlikely that paper will drape in the same manner as fabric. Also, bending resistance is measured in only one direction at a time in 2D tests； warp stiffness and weft stiffness are each determined separately (Collier & Epps, 1999). In practice, though, drape usually occurs in both directions simultaneously. Therefore, the anisotropic behavior of fabrics is not captured by 2D tests. Fabric drape is a 3D phenomenon and cannot accurately be described by 2D measures. Fabric drape measurement took a significant step forward with the development
